On the
tide, between the quays and ancient harbour walls, idle a mixture
of boats of all shapes, sizes and colours – trawlers, yachts,
pleasure craft, tenders and the replica of Sir Francis Drake's
ship, The Golden Hind, in which he circumnavigated the globe.
The link being that
Drake sailed into Torbay
after the sea battle with the Spanish Armada in 1588 with the
captured galleon, Nostra Senora del Rosario.
Before reaching the
old fish market, there is an obelisk identifying the spot where
William Prince of Orange landed on November 5th, 1688, and further,
in front of the Strand Art Gallery , is a statue of the Prince
that has stood since November 1889. As you walk slowly around
the periphery of the harbour try to grasp a feel for the place,
the past, the people, their trades, their lives. This is Brixham's
heritage, this is Fishtown.
As you step onto the
modern waterfront walkway immediately in front of the H M Coastguard
headquarters, you see the fine views of the outer harbour where
inevitably the heritage fleet – Regard, Vigilance, Pilgrim,
Leader, Provident, Golden Vanity – renovated sailed fishing
vessels, can be seen. Often in summer, hordes of young children
crabbing with their lines and buckets line the walkway while
their parents keep a watchful eye from the comfort of the tables
outside The Prince William Bar & Carvery. This area was
once the shipyards adjacent to King's Quay, where H M naval
ships took on provisions from Cowtown, the agricultural end
of town, and fresh water piped from the reservoir at Bolton
Cross.
The walkway leads
you past floating jetties, Grenville House, which was formerly
the British Seaman's Boy Home, an orphanage from 1863 until
1988 and re-opened in 1990 as an Outdoor Education Centre; the
Yacht Marina; the R.N.L.I. Lifeboat Station until you reach
the slipway before the breakwater. The slipway, known locally
as the ‘hard', was constructed purposely for Operation Overlord,
the D-Day Landings in Normandy on Tuesday June 6th 1944.
The breakwater today
is 1000 yards long and has not been extended since 1916. Originally
built in 1843, it was less than 500 yards in length. It was
first extended after the Great Gale of 1866 when 50 vessels
perished and 100 lives were lost. Up until recent years a pipeline
ran the whole length from the oil depot in Breakwater Quarry
to the oil jetty. Walk the breakwater to the lighthouse and
back and see how the bell tower of All Saint 's Church has dominated
the skyline since it was built in 1815.
Reverend Henry Francis
Lyte, a Scotsman and hymn writer, was the pastor here from 1823
until his death in 1847, aged just 54. After his last service,
he wrote ‘Abide With Me', the adopted F.A. Cup Final anthem.
He died in Nice , France where he is buried. Looking towards
Berry Head you see the limestone quarry, the Berry Head Hotel
and Shoalstone Sea Water Pool. This is the direction we now
head.
Cross the top of Breakwater
Beach and climb the steps to Berry Head Road . After 100 yards
turn left onto the narrow pathway that leads to Shoalstone Pool
and Café, returning to the road through the car park
which fronts the old coastguard houses. Stroll between the two
old gate pillars that lead to the Berry Head Hotel. Originally
built as a Military Hospital in 1809, it became the residence
of the Reverend Lyte from 1832. Pass the entrance and turn left
through the style into the woods that lead up to Hardy's Point
on the common.
Here, the walls of
the Northern Fort on the promontory can be clearly seen. The
fort was built to stave off the threat of invasion during the
French Wars (1793 to 1815) and was manned by 1000 men, but saw
no action. It closed in 1817, two years after Wellington defeated
Napolean at Waterloo . Coincidently, Napoleon spent several
days as a prisoner on board HMS Bellerophon moored off Brixham
while waiting to be exiled to St Helena , where he died.
Enter the main entrance
of the fort and stroll directly eastwards to the end of the
headland to the lighthouse. Built in 1905, it's the highest
(200 feet above sea level) and lowest (less than 10 feet in
height) in Britain . Here, too, is the old Artillery Store which
houses an exhibition telling the story of Berry Head. Return
the way you came passing the old Gatehouse which is now a Café,
and head towards the Southern Fort. Take the path to the right
of
the fort and stay on
the path that hugs the coastline. After about three quarters
of a mile, with Sharkham Point and St Mary's Beach (Mudstone)
in view, turn right onto a tarmaced pathway that runs beside
houses. Walk northwards in a straight line along this path,
into Centry Road and Lower Rea Road, turning right when the
road bears left. Walk downwards towards the sea, then down and
left towards the harbour, stopping to enjoy the panoramic view
over the roof tops. Descend Bay View Steps onto King Street
, cross the road and walk down into Fore Street , passing the
Coffin House at Temperance Place .
Now back into town,
you are faced with the choice of returning to the main car park
where your journey began, or retire to one of the many harbour
side hostelries where sea fishermen of times past assembled
to finish their arduous working day. Alternatively, you may
prefer a coffee house, or eat fish and chips sat on one of the
many benches around the harbour and watch the day pass by as
you reflect on your excursion.
To complete your day
you may wish to visit either the Brixham Heritage Museum or
the Strand Art Gallery . The museum is in the old Police Station
next to the old Market Hall at Bolton Cross at the end of Fore
Street . It's open Monday to Friday 10.00am to 5.00pm, Saturday
10.00am to 1.00pm. Sunday it is closed. The gallery is opposite
the William Prince of Orange statue and exhibits work by local
artists.
ANDY
JAGO, APRIL 2008 |
Brixham for the Visitor
